Time Stamps Was Fashion your first love? 1:13 What is your take on quality being expensive due to the Process? 9:27 How do you plan on inspiring fashion …
and so there was actually three fields
of
study one was with the mushrooms
the second one was with tilantius that
is this piece of
tropical plant that doesn't have
roots so it's actually really
interesting to study because
the way that the life circle is
completely different from the rest of
the plants
we think of so it's really
really interesting and then the third is
the one that i posted those that is the
woman
plants that is rated this huge study of
exotic seeds
and how to grow them and on fabrics and
how to keep them alive
as as long as possible because otherwise
they live for
like weeks just for just for a few hours
and
i kind of investigated how to make them
live smaller in the garden
actually i don't know everyone has that
question i don't know why i choose
fashion i think that
well it's true that my mom study fashion
arts and so my whole life i've been
going to
galleries and i've been surrounded by
artists
that's something that i really i'm
really
lucky i think i consider that i'm really
lucky and i really like that of my mom
um and so because of that i decided to
investigate is
when i was 14 years old uh i always had
this feeling stuff because i hate i
i don't really like the industry
actually i hate the industry of fashion
and how it works nowadays so
before starting to study fashion i
always kind of have this
um fighting side of why would i like to
join that industry or
why is what is the thing that i really
like about it
but at the end i kind of like
um i joined this uni in madrid
that he was really into it was really
into sustainable fashion
and that was the thing that really kind
of like grabbed me
it's huge it's actually a really big
world because
it depends so much the if the industry
is kind of divided in different process
from the
moment of um growing the maybe the
the plants where you get the fabric the
fibers to the
the moment you have it in the shops
there's so many kind of
steps to follow and you know those steps
there are so many mistakes
uh regarding and
sustainability in with our planet and
just
and social sustainability with the
people that create this clothing
and so kind of like the sustainable
fashion
it started to take care of it but it's
true that
still there's no like a right part to
follow because there's so many things
in our society that make it really hard
to happen
it's really hard to give 100 sustainable
fashion however
with all that is happening i i must say
that
from for example my first year uni
um it was a weird thing no one knew
about sustainable fashion and the few
brands that existed were obviously
outside of spain because spain is really
far from
all these things and they were really
into
really practical fashion that didn't
really grab the
attention of the consumers so they
didn't really
work as a business you know it's
beautiful how with
for example with all that is happening
right now with the covet
we're starting to see how important is
to change
into a more sustainable path and there's
so
many more brands that are taking care
about it and the huge industries are
starting to like
invest a lot of money into sustainable
life cycles otherwise that's very true
so when you say sustainability what
really
uh what's the word or sentence that
really gets
because i have seen a lot of definitions
for sustainability and i still
don't think i've completely explored the
whole concept of sustainability
designing a product from the whole
process from the start
to the finish till the product dies
like all of this is a sustainable
process which i think i've
come to like you know realization that
uh it's not just it's the kind of
materials you use it's the kind of
processes that involves and including
the experimentation as well like
all of this has to i think um
you know be considered when you talk
about sustainability
if i'm not wrong and whether this is
going to sustain for how long the
product is going to sustain
so what what what do you have to say on
that
i think that um sustainability if i had
to say a word
to define it it would like to be to find
balance with everything we do
balance with the planet with the the
quantity of product that we plant and we
produce
as well as how we
equal rights with the people that are
doing the government
i don't know if you know the the
accident
that happened in bangladesh
people don't want to pay more so if you
don't want to pay more
how the producer would pay more to the
worker
so that it's like the chain you know
start from the consumer and
ends to the the liver you know
still a lot of people are missing they
didn't find their bodies
somebody lost two daughter two son
husband wife both who'll take their
responsibility
she's
she
that's it is try to find a violence of
course it's really hard to stop this
industry because it's one of the most
powerful industries in the world and in
the economies
of different countries and so
of course the the process to our
sustainable fashion is going to be
really slow but
i think that the actual
world that we should use when we want to
create something
it's like really if you're gonna do
something to find
the balance to where you are taking from
the planet or from the people is
producing everything you know
um i think for example a more
sustainable fashion also
uh helps people or um
try to make people realize how bad the
industry
is and kind of make them try to
not just take more care of their clothes
because i have to say that also
the way we produce clothing is really
shitty right now like i have
you can find um so many clothes in
the shop that after two weeks they start
break they start to broke they start to
like
fade because they are not good quality
they make it really fast so the quality
is not made to
it's more it's made just to consume to
consume and consume
so i think that um
emergency fashion apart from all the
pros and everything
would just be consumers realizing how
bad is the industry right now
and starting to take care of their
garments
and the quantity they buy and also
how they can then recycle because
and there's the there's right now so
many um
companies that are starting to kind of
like close their circle like if you buy
something from their
shops once you don't want it anymore
they have kind of like another process
that you can maybe go to the show but
they take it they recycle they give you
a bit of money to buy new clothing or
maybe they have
um people that they can um
kind of like fix the damages of the
clothing and everything
the same an organic cotton that uh
pulled yesterday
and it's not the same produced in in a
really small
and local um factory
then in these factories where they have
people there are more like
slaves of the of the
factory and they work there for hours
and hours and hours and they don't pay
them anything
garment costs maybe 0.05
now of course that's really really
really low but you understand what i
mean you know like
but but that's the thing and that's why
it's gonna be a really
slow process because to make it happen
we we first have to
change the way the consumer thinks and
their values
when they buy because if if if our if
us consumers we still want really low
really low prices for really shitty
clothing
the industry is not going to change but
if i as a customer
i ask for a really good quality t-shirt
at least 100 cotton t-shirt
and i don't mind paying a few euros more
in my case euros
then industry industry will have to
change because they need like
they actually their their job is to
provide
us with what we need because we are the
ones we're going to pay
and so that's what's going to be a
really slow process because
the first step is to change the values
of
the consumers and and actually tell them
there is a problem and if that is not
stopped
then there is going to be consequences
to that
yeah well i have to say that now
because i started to see that there's
more and more people that
i started to ask for this quality and
ask for this type of passion
for more sustainable one
we already like adapt to this industry
and this way of living where everything
is
easy fast conditioning
and cheap yeah but that's like we don't
we
produce it really fast we do it really
fast and it's
and it gets broken and broken and broken
we're still buying by and by and then we
kill our opponent we kill our people we
and so yeah i mean of course we will
have to
we will have to consume this and
consume with a quality that is with the
best quality
because if you think about it maybe you
can buy
five t-shirts for five euros
but maybe those seriously we're gonna
those five tiers
t-shirts are gonna last for five days
but if you can buy
one t-shirt that is already five euros
and it's gonna last
for last you for more than two years
it's worth the past
the influence of fast fashion spans
continents
clothing giant zara is now worth 13
billion dollars with stores in over 93
countries admittedly i've made my fair
share of purchases from h
m and uniqlo with my favorite being a
blue bathing suit i bought for ten
dollars at h
m ten dollars how can a piece of
clothing
be that cheap to make transport and
advertise
well to be honest it can't there are
huge humanitarian and
environmental costs that are hidden by
an inexpensive price tag
although these fast fashion companies
have committed numerous human rights
violations
today i'm only going to look at the
environmental issues that are caused by
the mass production of cheap clothes
the phrase fast fashion is used as an
umbrella term to describe the
accelerated process
of turning new design ideas into clothes
on the retail floor
in the case of a store like zara for
example it takes a mere
14 to 21 days from the inception
to the sale of a product and this
ability to create new trends very
quickly
combined with savvy marketing campaigns
has meant that stores like h
m and forever 21 can quickly change
every item in their store
to drum up hype about a new line of
clothing much like a fast food chain
that is constantly changing its menu
items in order to stay relevant
these fast fashion stores can introduce
new clothes almost
weekly not only does this mean that
consumers are tempted to buy the newest
and best pants or shirts
but it also means that older items
quickly become irrelevant
this constant over consumption has high
environmental consequences
on the supply side of the equation most
clothing is now made of a material
called
polyester which is a petroleum-based
fiber that requires large amounts of
fossil fuels for manufacturing
according to forbes that number has now
reached up to 70 million barrels a year
and the rise of fast fashion went hand
in hand with a rise
in polyester production now polyester
manufacturing for clothing
far outpaces other common materials like
cotton or
wool this presents a major problem
especially considering that polyester
is a non-biodegradable substance
polyester
can take anywhere from 20 to 200 years
to degrade depending on the conditions
and is one of the leading causes of
microplastics in
oceans because when washed polyester
clothing shed
fibers that then find their way into
larger water streams
in short polyester is really cheap it
makes the cost
of manufacturing thousands of pants much
cheaper than before
and it's able to do this because it
offloads all of its expenses
onto the environment environmental harm
caused by this new profit-centered
industry
is not at all reflected in the price tag
the fashion industry is now the eighth
most polluting industry in the world in
terms of greenhouse gas emissions
and is responsible for 92 million tons
or four percent of the world's annual
solid waste
so the real cost of my bathing suit is
much higher
than ten dollars but unfortunately as
consumers
we can only do so much to influence the
fashion industry's practices
create and create and create that's
fashion that's
what isn't working anymore
not just for the planet also for the
people
also for the treat of the people who
produce these these
these garments the people advising the
people it's
not i mean of course it's really easy to
make money but it's not what we need
anymore we need to change we need to
like
do what you said there's fast fashion
and slow fashion
to slow up ourselves and start to see
the good things of
like of the life living and i don't know
like we are
not we have an amazing planet and we are
killing it
and i don't know how it's been but for
something in spain that we've been
you know that we've been locked down
completely we couldn't leave our homes
during the quarantine we stayed like two
months or
i think nearly three
so
photos of animals on the streets of the
cities
of dolphins in the in the beach of in
the
the coast things that like nature was
free from us and that was that was like
a proof of how damaged we are right now
for planet you know that our rhythm
doesn't go at the same time that
that they go and then we're
i know i think that we just we should
just like try to go
like see further of the money
and start to like yeah we need to
recalculate the system actually the
whole system
the way we produce things and the way we
make things
that's true
oyster mushroom you grow oyster
mushrooms and made clothing out of it
now how cool is that
can you eat it and how much you can eat
them
yeah you actually you can actually
all of them um well um
how to start well actually biodesign is
something that is really new
or at least well i found it uh like two
years ago
that's when i started experimenting with
sustainability because in the beginning
my path this sustainable foundation was
like
going back to the roots of bed to a good
a good fabric good quality organic
cotton academic
fibers and also um local ways
of um producing the garment and
to kind of like more artists like
craftsmanship techniques in all these
fields
and um so in the beginning i was really
into that
that but then i discovered how there
were so many
new brands and studios that they were
starting to investigate
new materials instead because
it's actually the what you just said
fashion slow fashion is really expensive
people are not open to pay that much
for a garment so what can we do maybe we
can create
a new fabric or new material maybe not
it's not a fabric of course
then can the production of this fabric
is cheaper
so that it can be really easy producer
chain that we follow nowadays
and so that's how i kind of started to
investigate into the
i kind of is how i discovered this
new feel of biodesign
and so i was really i started to
investigate and
i first i started with
bioplastic that is bioplastics that is
the one that i'm doing right now i mean
i'm working now in a studio but i will
tell you later and
then it's how i kind of i always think
in a really
kind of hippie schools so
i always i always mean this type of girl
that likes to grow their own food
i don't know i was one day talking with
my friend no i was
i was i went to work in in
chile with with a band
and i attended to this um talk about
at the end of the era that was really
interesting and so
i realized that i wanted to focus my
last year
of um my project
in an investigation because i i actually
wanted to be
and i want to be a fashion investigator
not a fashion designer after that i was
one day talking with my friend
and he's really into oyster mushrooms
because he's an
engineer agricultural engineer
so we started talking and then i said
that it was really cool
it would it could be really cool to like
merge
fashion in nature and maybe make people
realize of how damaged with
the planet the anthropocene era talks
about an era of the planet where
the humans have uh
came to conclusion that they are the
kind of they say like the king of
everything that they are like the bosses
of the whole planet and
they are the ones and so they so i
wanted to like
kind of like change it all over and make
the garments
and put us the human beings as uh like
the
support from this nature to grow so so
like be the like work for this nature
not not think that nature is there for
us for
forever you know i don't know if i'm
explaining myself very well i've been
forgetting this for so long and so i'm
kind of like
i just meet nature and human uh
nature versus humans always been like
that like
nature is one part and human is another
part i mean that's just
wrong because i think we are so much
more connected
to nature as and i don't know
why there's this like there's this very
thin and blurry line i would say between
uh you know being human and being nature
like or being part of nature like why
are we just part of nature i mean
aren't we just living all together like
why
why is this i'm a human and then
the rest of the world like i did yeah i
mean
and this is such an interesting um
as you said it's it's such an
interesting overlap
like uh the whole um
and i hope that there are i mean i would
love to wear something that's made
completely out of
like you know i mean a cloth that grows
uh over time or like you know
changes its color over time and can be
edible it will be such a dream i have to
say that
i'm really glad that you found me but i
always be i was i'm really honest and
i like there's so many right
like when i actually when i started my
project i started to investigate of
course and i started to find
so many projects that were inside this
like this way of thinking and that they
wanted to develop the same
concept and it was actually amazing i
told you this
um it's not really there maybe a few
more but
it's incredible how um and that's the
proof of how we are changing that
our minds are starting to connect and
start to have
the same ideas because that's those are
the
the concepts that we need right now and
though that was
inspiring and also about by the design
you know there's so many uh films of
in industry right now that are
implementing
uh biology biology in their way of
accreting because
for example there's some there's some
study that is called
this um i know it's not just in a study
it's kind of a science
that is called biomimesis that they
study
all patterns forms and colors
way of living in nature and how they
live and how they work and how they act
to
their in their life and they study it
and they start to apply it to design
and everything for example do you
remember this gold
case and it was like that the name there
was a phone case
that they studied the pattern of the
skin of the camaleon i think it was
and the geometry that the skin has
helped them to like attach their like
to like attach to any
whoa
so what is your uh current project that
you're working on
i'm working a lot more in collaboration
with love that is madrid
and i'm the coordinator and director of
uh
fashion project that we are
investigating uh the creation
of bioplastic that could be applied into
high couture fashion high quality
fashion is like
you know and so um using
all the new techniques of digital design
we're starting to create bioplastic that
could be
implemented in these new machines in
order to change them and
make them be a little bit more
sustainable because
uh for example the three machines could
be part of them are used with plastics
and
and so we're starting to see if we can
create
garments as incredible as the ones we
see in the haikus or
catwalks so i was talking to lots of
scientists and engineers
and one of the people i spoke to was a
biologist he
was the first person to suggest to me
that if you really want to
completely rethink how you might create
a piece of clothing
that you could imagine growing a dress
in a vat of liquid using bacteria
the process we used was incredibly
simple and actually i realized that it
wasn't so difficult to produce something
that
not only was textile like in feel but
that i could
sew together like a normal piece of
clothing
and it just shifted my whole thinking in
terms of how you might create
fashion in the future bioplastic to make
them 100 biodegradable
garments and so yeah
yeah and what was during process because
we started with like
a month ago but the things with all the
coffee
situation it's being hard to go to the
lab
and we're doing everything like with
zoom calls
and it's quite tricky because maybe we
can share
experiments that we have done but
you to actually go
and create samples and all that or you
can
work from home most of it is done from
the lab right
or project yes because we need the
machines
we need all the laser cuts 3d machines
and benefits but um
like the first part of it that is
investigating how to produce
these bioplastics we're kind of been
doing it
um virtually uh we've been
having like classes i mean i had like i
i
did previously like a release
class investigation when i kind of
learned how to create them so we started
like working
each like because we're right now i
think that we're like
15 in the group 14 15.
so we're actually a lot working on it
it's amazing it's really inspiring
because everyone is really
uh into the project and it's really like
working so hard and so i'm i'm pleased
and really happy about it
and so yeah maybe in september we will
be lucky to go to
the lab and start to produce the final
governments
that if everything goes well maybe for
they will be
uh in social media october
oh what that is all the best for that
project
my favorite part was experimentation
because
there were so many seats that needed a
lot of care so i had to spend hours
and hours and days and weeks in studio
like watching how they were growing in
the near water
the near earth of the colors that they
were creating
uh how they like every centimeter that
they were growing i would like
measure them and so i have it was
beautiful to see how every day i felt
like a mom taking care of their babies i
was there
alone hours and weeks with my babies
they were like huge garments
and controlling each detail and
it was beautiful it was actually it was
it was i think they were
my favorite part for sure obviously
seeing
final results was breathtaking
and like i was so happy and proud that i
did it but
my favorite part was that was like the
actual
process in the studio working with them
so how many seeds did you actually
experiment with like how many
species of plants did you uh
uh work with and are these plants edible
or like are these like wild weeds that
that uh grow or these are like
food uh like kind of herbs what kind of
plants
i think it is yeah okay so did you hear
me
here
you go
all right okay yeah
and you can you hear me well yeah
okay um i think that
um they started the question
was uh yeah they're edible you can eat
all of them
you can well there was
so there was three fills the mushrooms
ones and the plants
and the sprouts those you can eat them
whenever
you can just cut them and eat it on a
salad and they're
really good because i did it once the
project was finished
i ate my own garments and it was really
good
and um they were there i had i started
the project around october
october yes and i finished it
like by the end of may how long did they
survive like these
garments that he did make the plants
lasted for how long
okay so it depends of the plants
there there was one or two that um
they don't leave much they don't live
really long because they need a lot of
water
but the garments are um because i also
had to do
like a pattern making um
investigation in order to create
garments that could be planned
or recent horizontally they are to adapt
to the body so
the thing is that when they are alive
you can easily if you are
not wearing them you can unfold them and
have them have them flat so that you can
take care of the plants
oh and if you you take uh
well care of the plants they can leave
there was actually a garment that i
managed to
um to keep it alive for two months
are made from a hundred percent wool
recycle
filter filter felt no felt built
i made words felt and so
um i made it thick enough so that the
root could live inside the garment
and so then you have obviously you have
to take care of this uh
felt and you have to like prepare it for
the plants to live it's normally really
like
strong and everything's really stick so
you can like um oxygen the fabric
and clean it well and then it's when you
can start to apply the
seeds and obviously the process changes
independence of
the of the seeds you put you
plant on them once use what you know how
to do it doesn't take that long
i i know i mean each garment took me
around
two to three weeks to prepare the like
the patching the falls
everything and then
well yeah two to three weeks plus so
maybe
around five weeks each oh wow
so you got the garment uh first you made
the material
that's the base where the plant is
actually going to grow
and then you cut it out of course you
like filtered it and made it more
breathable for the plants
and then you you cut it out you really
kind of i create that the structure of
the of the garment
and then it's when i plant it because
well there's so many ways of doing it
actually during that the whole
investigation i
i tried different techniques
to create this garment and there were a
few
that the seeds were already like they
were
you you had to first
insert the fab the seeds in the fabric
and then create the fabric i like more
the aesthetic of
of this felt and also the the seeds and
the plants
leave it longer in this in this fabric
so
that's what i choose and when you're
using felt you can
not put sometimes you cannot put the
seeds
from the beginning in the fabric because
the fruit the way
the felt is produced uh can maybe kill
the seed
the seeds so you have to do it
filled with the seeds so you there's a
fence and then
it depends there was one case that i did
it there were
but there was others that i just um
i worked with the seeds after uh so i
first created the garment on the felt
and everything and then i worked with
the seeds
maybe obviously inserting them a little
bit but
didn't produce everything together from
the beginning because
um there were seasons that could
maybe damage the seeds get damaged
and maybe they planned and we didn't
live that long
okay i i bet this was very difficult
from the bush
mushroom how was the oyster mushroom
the oyster mushroom was actually another
another world
grown mushroom you first have to
inoculate
the mycelium the mycelium is like the
root of it
the roof of the whole of the fungus in
general being
investigated in so many fields from the
fashion industry
to the uh to the nasa and so i started
to investigate and the trickiest part of
it was to inoculate this
um micellar because you need to
sterilize
uh every uh tool and every
piece that you are gonna like inoculate
and it's really fragile uh when you know
to leave the the mushroom that is it
takes like
29 days to inoculate
and you have to keep it in a dark place
with a really controlled temperature
and everything if you don't fall every
day
every step like controlling every
till i had to grow them
on a fabric that was
already quite it was not a normal
material because normally fungus grows
really well
in a substrate associated that it helps
them
like help them as um
it's kind of like food for them you know
so when they have
maybe wood or maybe another material
they kind of
use that as their um yes their food and
they grow with it
but when it's a fabric that doesn't
well not easy i don't know yeah it's not
that easy
also depends a lot of mushroom that you
are inoculating
at the temperature where are you right
at the like the place
where you are inoculating it there's so
many things to
to kind of control but it's not that
hard i mean
once you know them once you can control
them the human
humidity the temperature the light
the the quantities and the
straight you can do it perfectly i
actually i did it
at my place so i mean you just need to
be really picky and it's complicated but
it's not the hardest thing and yeah
there's so many things you can do with
fungi and this is what keeps us up at
night
fungi for food medicine textiles fiber
packaging materials even biofuel
fungi just have this potential to unlock
biological material that's a waste
product
in our civilization and convert it into
something else
so that's what's exciting and everyone's
like scampering onto this bandwagon to
try to catch up
i think it's unlimited what we can do
with mushrooms once we know more about
the different varieties that are out
there
and more about their biology in general
oyster mushroom is really strong
but the mysterium is really easy that it
gets
kind of sick during the process did you
uh
experiment with adult mushrooms as well
to grow
other mushrooms that are much more
beautiful let's say like that
but the thing is like with everything
that had happened
uh it was really hard to buy them and
it's not easy to buy to like there's no
shops that they buy that they sell these
exotic
mushrooms bro so
i had a few contacts but with everything
that happened
everything got really complicated and
i'm also working on this i haven't left
this investigation
there and in the future i will i would
love to
find a way of growing these other
mushrooms on the fabrics i have to say
that
it's not easy because obviously growing
maybe the machine it's not it can be
if you control everything of how i i
have just said
is can be easy but you have to make it
stronger
enough so that the mushroom can then
grow because it's a completely different
thing
one thing is that mycelium and how it
can
like get inoculated and grow through in
like inside the
fabric but then yeah but
once you populate the garment then you
have to start a second process
when you make the mushroom grow on it
there was actually one piece that i did
that just one
tiny really tiny mushroom girl and i was
like i kind of believe it after
after weeks of working with this piece
that was my result i'm trying to get
this
final garment ready uh six experiments
at the same time
so i always kind of like investigated
how to do it i did my research
and i planned like okay i'm gonna do
this this this and this experiment
and i'm gonna change these different
things in each
and let's see which one works better but
actually i did two
but with all the quarantine and the
confirmation well
that's what i said life is like this one
completely died
and it was a mess and the smell
was horrible and
and i remember my parents like really
angry with me because
we know we were all the time we had to
be in our locked down
in our home and my home is smelled like
really that bad yeah really bad
that is fine it was worth it
it was it was for sure it was i'm glad
uh that you you experimented with
mushrooms so i'm guessing the plants
were easier to grow
than the mushrooms yeah the plants were
much
do you plan on sticking with these
experience with just fashion or
uh do you want to expand this
experimentation to
other products as well or as of now it's
just fashion
well actually now that i haven't that i
have
released the project there are so many
other artists
that have asked me that maybe i'm gonna
collaborate with them and
i was thinking about applying this
investigation to
um lamp lamps
maybe jewelry or different things the
things
is what i've what i've said is is
still is nature you cannot
control it you cannot you can
not uh think that it's gonna you cannot
create a product
the garment and i saw these yellow
mushrooms
and the composition of the white and the
yellow mushrooms it just looks very
pretty like it it just came out like
so nice i was like oh my god okay then
you're like oh he's just talking to my
mom i was like do you know i have an
interview with a person who made clothes
that grow plants
and she's like really that that's
interesting
oh my god she grew herbs i think you
should start
doing that all right paula i'm not going
to place
any much of your time thank you so much
i bet that you have to go somewhere and
uh thank you again
all right see you then bye
bye stay safe

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